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    8/1/2008

    游敦煌——鸣沙山、月牙泉

           至敦煌机场,已是晚上七点时分。下得飞机坐车直奔鸣沙山和月牙泉。一路上两边绿荫,行车极少。所以尽管机场到景点的路较远,还是颠簸着飞驰很顺利。

           来到景区车不能再往前,我们一行为了赶时间,就雇了辆骡车,一个个像小媳妇似地倦缩在挂着粉红帷帘的车棚里。谁知这骡车不紧不慢地悠哉,比步行还慢着呢!不过倒是把“两岸”风光尽收眼里。所谓景区,其实就是景点前的一条十几来米长的小街。两边的地上都铺张着小摊,似乎夹道欢迎我们。商贩们兜售着各种古玩及夜光杯。唐诗曰“葡萄美酒夜光杯,欲饮琵琶马上催。”诗中的夜光杯,据《十洲》记载:“周穆王时,西域献夜光常满杯,杯受三升,是白玉之精,光明夜照。瞑夕出杯于中庭以向天,比明而水汁满中,汁甘而香美,斯实灵人之器。”在敦煌所见铺天盖地的夜光杯,甚至还有夜光壶,价格各异,形形式式,令人目不暇接。

           景点的进门是一座古老的像旧时衙门式的建筑物。穿过门洞,突兀在眼前的竟是一片苍茫巍峨的黄色沙海,使人惊讶!第一次看到沙漠,联想起关于它的种种神话传说,同时也带来了心灵的震撼。这就是闻名于世的鸣沙山、月牙泉!

           真正进入旅游区,乘上电瓶车,开在沙漠的小道上,绕着鸣沙山,进入月牙泉。奇迹在这里展现眼前!绵延不断的沙海中,竟然有着一潭清泉,永不枯竭地长留与此。那一潭弯弯的月牙形的泉水,犹如天上冰清玉洁的月牙倒映在沙漠上,并且深深地刻划在沙漠里。周围是一片小小的浓浓绿洲,泉边修建的假山亭子楼阁,那飞檐斗拱相交辉映,恰似蓬莱仙境呈现大漠之中。捧一掬IMG_1114七彩的细沙,摸一下苍翠的青松,蹬上石阶,来到亭阁,俯首看月牙泉更显清楚。此时,四周一派黄沙的海洋——沙山、沙丘、沙浪,在这宏伟的景象中,把自己融入于仙境内,着实也有飘飘欲仙的感觉了。

              月牙泉不枯竭的原因,除了有充沛的地下水之外,与月牙泉周围沙丘的形状像港湾一般有关,大风刮起时,飞扬的沙子便会转回落到周围的沙丘上,不会淹没这难得的一泓清泉。给茫茫沙海留下一抹亮点,一潭生命之泉!

             晚上九点的敦煌鸣沙山,还是斜阳脉脉,人头挤挤。游兴正浓的游客们还能骑上停在道边的骆驼,由带头的骆驼老大带领着,一小队,一小队,一头连着一头,伴随着驼铃声有节奏地行走着。犹如一条条缓缓移动的长龙,在黄色的沙海上浩浩荡荡。

             夜深人静万籁无声时,侧耳细听——时隐时现地能听到远处沙浪的翻动声,这就是鸣沙山在歌唱。细细品味,时而宛若丝竹的敲打声,时而又似军队的战鼓隆隆声。这就是鸣沙山、月牙泉!带着神秘,又带些许诡异。这就是数千年留传下来的敦煌!

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    冰 徐wrote:
    有一首好听的歌曲"月牙泉",我们曾用它来做舞蹈音乐,读了你的文字,更感觉它的美,很高兴认识你,照片上的你一如文字,亲切,自然.
    Aug. 23
    Picture of Anonymous
    Aug. 4

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